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Date of Incident

15/07/2024

Country

France

Route

Activity

Sport rock climbing

When

Descending

Injury

Minor injury

Incident

Sport Climber fell circa 3M onto the ground while being lowered off 5a single pitch sport route by the belayer.
Climber was fully committed, happened while he was removing the gear and this came as a total surprise. Fell at 90 degrees to the face ie parallel with the ground. Bruised, we were both shocked but ok. First time climbing together, first climb of the holiday. Belayer also shocked that this happened.

Lessons

1) Always Tie in at both ends of the rope. (even when single pitch climbing). Most at the crag were not doing this as they had 60 or 60+M ropes. Ours was a 50M single rope which per guide book should be just long enough.
An overhand knot placed about 1 foot from the belayer's rope end would also work but is perhaps not the best method.
2) Belayer needs to always remain alert, inc observing the rope end and that sufficient rope remains. Debris ingress or a knot or kink in the rope end could also cause belayer problems which could be dangerous even if tied in at both ends etc. Belayers please occasionally check the rope end.
3) Buddy check should include everything, not just harness , rope correctly in belay plate, belay technique, should also include checking that the belayer has tied in or tied a knot on the rope end and that they know to regularly check the trailing rope. Dont assume they will do as discussed/presumed.
4) Experienced veteran climbers use their experience to check less experienced climbers more carefully and regularly.
5) Making presumptions can be dangerous.
Presumed belayer was experienced enough to know/remember/check this final tie in step and do it while I was preparing my gear to climb. Presumed belayer would regularly check for sufficient rope end and rope integrity while lowering. Tales of climbs in tough places do not guaranteed that mistakes can still happen !.
6)We did discuss and guide book checked that the rope length 50M would be just about enough if managed ok, but unfortunately got distracted from focusing on this point while lowering.
7) Incidents can be traumatic for the person who made the mistake. Take this into consideration. They too will be shocked. Everyone makes mistakes one time or another.
8) Risk Asses what could go wrong before starting to climb.
9)Always complete a post incident Incident report.

Causes

Belaying failure or error

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

No rescue services required. Implemented RICE.

Author

Gerard Kenny

29 July 2024 at 14:26:43

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

If you have a concern regarding this report please contact us at incidentreports@thebmc.co.uk

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